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 09-29-2017, 12:38 Post: 94278
TomG



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Location: Upper Ottawa Valley
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 Putting drain in existing barn

I don't know touchy enviro things are in your area. We installed a gray water pit and the rules here require it to be 3' above the high water table (and that's for gray water). The rules required us to raise the pit 3' above grade due to a high water table in the spring. It might be good to check regs in your area. Of course, if you ask you may get an answer you don't want.

Our pit had to be rated at 375 gpd for a health permit. It is 6x12x4' stone filled with a 3' chamber.






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 09-30-2017, 18:04 Post: 94401
TomG



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 Putting drain in existing barn

If I were doing it I'd look for a large buried rock face and put a pit over it. That forces water to stay closer to the surface so more evapourates and also to travel further through soil before it enters the water table. Typical pit construction is cement blocks turned sideways and a similar central chamber topped with a slab or paving stones. The pit is filled with stone, untreated building paper is placed over the stone and then it's covered over. The soil firms up before the paper deteriorates. For high water tables and no rock faces, leech-lines take more area but require less depth. Some types of trees can help evapouration with pits but usually not leech lines.

Regs can be a pain. I figure that I live here and I'm the one who has a stake in the environment. Regs tend to be standards for the worst cases of irresponsibility rather than guides for solving particular problems in particular places--still they do have some teeth. The inspector for our new septic system was also going to a place near here. Rumor has it that somebody with a partially built a system without taking out a permit first and then called for an inspection. I'll eventually hear how it turned out. Even if the system is up to spec I don't suppose the owner is going to be a very happy camper.






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 10-01-2017, 03:53 Post: 94575
TomG



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 Putting drain in existing barn

As grinder and Muft point out the size of the project depends on the volume of water, what's in it, the soil type and climate. All those things should be factored in, and codes aside, it is good to perc leechate of through at least 3' of soil before it get to the water table (further if much muck is involved).

The septic system we just retired was a pit construction with a small cedar timber primary tank. It worked for about 40-years before some cedar logs across the top gave way. Our modern usage of the system probably hastened its demise since the tanks likely were full up to the logs a fair bit of the time. Contrary to code, both tanks were covered with vapour barrier to stop surface water going into the tanks. Even so the capacity probably wasn't enough for the original users since a small leech line system was added to the pit. That's something that can be done later if necessary.

In my pit construction I mentioned an outer course of cement blocks. I realize now that they aren't usually needed. I was thinking about adding several courses above grade to simplify constructing our raised pit. Figured it would reduce soil invasion into the stone when mounding it up. Didn't have enough extra blocks and didn't do it.






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